| Two years ago the seed was planted. Having kayaked along the coast numerous times and each trip incorporating short swimming expeditions I was increasingly becoming more comfortable in the water. While the sea could be very rough at times it could also be nurturing. More and more I wanted to be in the water. | 
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We started by doing a recon swim along the first mile stretch from Ke’e to Hanakapiai. Donning mask, snorkel and fins we swam towing a baja bag (drybag) behind us with our camping gear. We wore shorts, rash shirt and hat for sun protection. No need for wetsuits here! We followed advice that strapping it to a boogie board would be a good way to go. We later found it to be a real nuisance. The bag floated well and dealing with one item in the shore break was bad enough – two was problematic. We packed light. A decision we were later to regret. The evening found us lying on hard ground, hunkered under a sheet of plastic being hammered by a rainstorm and hungry mosquitoes. We practiced our surf landings and launches en route.
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It looked easy but timing waves with their dumping nature took a bit of practice. We swam back the next day against the wind and current for practice and to see how we coped. |
We arrived on Kauai, somewhat out of shape and Mark had the flu. With our kayak trip looming just over a week away we realised there was no time to build up our fitness. Our initial idea was to swim to Kalalau and hike back. Realising this was going to be more committing than we were probably ready for, an alternative and ultimately better plan was hatched.
| We decided to do an amphibious trip along the entire Na Pali Coast, starting with our swim to Hanakapiai then hiking the nine miles to Kalalau. Swimming to Kalalau would have meant no landings for 7 miles and the possibility of reverse currents near the end! | 
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< Hiking from Hanakapiai to Hanakoa
On the way to Kalalau> |
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The trail was rugged, high up and exposed in places. The scenery was stunning. It felt great to hike the trail and see the place from a different perspective.
Despite feeling comfortable in the water,
there was enough uncertainty and commitment to make it a real “adventure”
We weren’t the first to swim it but it was still unusual and was a novelty
to onlookers. Perhaps the most unsettling thing was the response from others,
especially the alarmists who were all too keen to warn of sharks, currents
etc. Filtering information was tricky at times.It was with nervous anticipation
that we launched ourselves the next morning.
| Once on our way it felt delightful. This was our first committing stretch with no landing for 2 1/2 miles. The swell was big enough to create a significant backwash from the cliffs and the wind was unseasonably strong for that time of the morning. By half way I was experiencing some discomfort with my left fin and Mark was battling leg cramps and seasickness. I hadn’t even thought about that! There was no option other than to continue. I was very impressed with how well Mark handled it. Perhaps those years of being sick on the Alaskan fishing boats paid off! | 
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Our packs were a comforting safety feature.
They were buoyant enough to float with our upper bodies resting on top.
It was definitely helpful for throwing up! Towards the end it was a matter
of hanging in there. I was starting to feel a little seedy too by now.
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Aerial view of Nua'lolo'kai (middle) > As we neared Nua’lolo’kai we could see the surf crashing on the reef and we pinned our hopes on being able to sneak through a small keyhole we’d discovered in past years. Weaving our way through the breakers it was a relief to float into a calm retreat two hours after launching. Meantime the wind was picking up to a good 30 knots. |
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The wind backed off somewhat but another hazard faced us. The danger of tour boat operators not seeing us in the back chop with the low angle sun glaring on the water. We opted to sleep under the ironwoods and try again the next day. We were low on water and there was nowhere to top up here so there was as sense of urgency to continue next day.
As soon as we slipped into the water
at first light all apprehension melted away. The water felt so delicious!
The sea had calmed down and the wind hadn’t picked up yet. Sea turtles entertained
us on the way. Rather than land at the first possible place we continued
another mile or so since we were feeling so good. A rare Hawaiian monk seal
had pulled up on the beach before us. By now whitecaps had appeared and it
was still only 7am! It was time for breakfast, a water top up and a cuppa.
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< Arrival at Mil'o'li'i Hiking the boulder beach> |
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< Ready for the final swimming stretch to Polihale.
The end of the trip. Mark resting on the rocks at the end of Polihale Beach > |
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Polihale is a huge, wide, sandy, surf beach with road access. The landing was reasonably calm which suited me fine but I think Mark was a bit disappointed not to have bigger surf conditions to test the packs out! We both felt elated at having done this. As well as being extremely enjoyable it was certainly great for the spirit. I can’t wait to do it again! Maybe next time we will crack the Kalalau stretch.
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New Zealand Sea Kayak Adventures
PO Box 454
Paihia, Bay of Islands
New Zealand
64 (9) 402 8596
nzkayak@xtra.co.nz